For user convenience, this project has a stepper speed control and a brightness control. At slower speeds and/or reduced brightness, the battery’s life is extended considerably.
At full brightness, the LEDs flash extremely brightly. More than one of this project grouped together occasionally synchronize, lighting the whole room for a moment.Operation
At maximum speed, the LEDs don’t appear to flash, instead they appear to move from one lighted one to the next, around and around. They rotate completely for 4 rotations in two seconds, and then turn off for a one second pause then repeat the sequence. At a lower speed, the number of rotations before the pause is less. It will do three rotations, two or even only one rotation at its slowest speed. A sequence of rotations starts with LED #2 and end with LED #9.
Specifications
Battery: Four AA alkaline cells.
Battery life:
Minimum speed and brightness 2.3 years
Medium speed and brightness 1 year
Minimum speed, maximum brightness 4.1 months
Maximum speed and brightness 3.8 weeks
Brightness: controlled with Pulse width Modulation, from off to extremely bright
(4000mcd).
Stepper speed: 2 LEDs/sec to 2 revolutions/sec.
Pulse Width Modulation frequency: 3.9KHz.
LED current: 24mA pulses.
LED voltage drop: 3.2V at 24mA. Blue, green and white Ultra-Bright LEDs are suitable.
Minimum battery voltage:
<3V, oscillators do not run.
3V, LEDs are very dim.
4V, LEDs reach almost full brightness.
Radio interference: none.
Circuit Description
The 10 LEDs mount on a Compact-Disc which is glued to a plastic box with contact cement. The box houses the Veroboard circuit in its lower main part with the battery holders on its lid. Multiconductor ribbon cable joins the LEDs to the circuit. The pots mount on the sides of the box.
If you turn it down each night, its current is so low an on-off switch isn’t needed.
Parts List
1 IC1 MC14584BCP (Motorola) * Ordinary Cmos hex Schmitt trigger inverters
1 IC2 CD74HC4017N High-speed Cmos decade counter/decoder
1 T1 2N3904 or 2N4401 NPN transistor
8 D1 to D8 1N4148 or 1N914 Diodes
10 LEDs Blue, green or white Ultra-Bright LEDs with Vf = 3.2V or less at 20mA
1 R1 100K 1/4W resistor
1 R2 1M Linear-taper potentiometer
1 R3 33K 1/4W resistor
1 R4 2.2M 1/4W resistor
1 R5 22M 1/4W resistor
1 R6 47K 1/4W resistor
1 R7 1M Audio-taper (logarithmic) potentiometer
1 R8 1.8K 1/4W resistor
1 R9 68 ohms 1/4W resistor
1 C1 100uF/16V Electrolytic capacitor
1 C2 0.1uF/50V Ceramic capacitor
2 C4 and C4 1uF/63V Metalized poly capacitor
1 C5 470nF Metalized poly capacitor
2 C6 and C7 1nF Metalized poly capacitor
* A CD74C14 can also be used for IC1 but R4 = 1M, R5 = 10M, C3 and C5 = 330nF,
C4 = 470nF.
A 3V LED Chaser project also works well with these changed parts but using a CD74HC14N
for IC1.
In addition to these changes, R8 = 680 ohms and R9 = 22 ohms. I built one using
low-voltage (1.8V at 20mA) orange Ultra-Bright LEDs. The orange one looks good beside
the green one.
Attachments: 6V LED Ultra-Bright Chaser schematic, Veroboard layout and 3 pictures.
I wish I knew how to take a slow picture with my son’s digital camera, so all the
LEDs would be lighted, and if I moved it would make nice lighted smears in the picture.
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